Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Day 5

Day 5:

Wednesday, March 25, 2009: Today we woke up early, showered, ate, and departed for the Palace of Versailles. Melissa could not go because she was meeting her French family (her grandma’s sister and her grandson) for the day.

We went to the Franprix grocery store because we decided to pack a picnic lunch. French grocery stores are so cheap! I spent less than 5E on a huge bottle of water, three apples, and a box of crackers (we skipped the cheese for some reason), and a bottle of wine.

We walked to Place d’Italie to get on the train. We would have to make one transfer for the direct RER train to Versailles. The roundtrip fare was 3E. We didn’t have to worry about which stop to get off at because it was the end of the line.

We bought the all-inclusive ticket for 16E to see the Palace and the Gardens. We had to check our bag so that ruled out having a picnic lunch. We took the tour of the Palace; it is awesome! There were so many tourists (I guess that should be expected) and the Asians are so slow. We had to avoid getting stuck behind them.

I took a ton of pictures. We saw the King’s room, the Queen’s room, the children’s apartment, the Hall of Mirrors, the War Room, etc. After that, we went to play in the Gardens. They were excellent as well. The only problem was that it was a little overcast and cold. And it was very windy!

We walked past the Grand Canals to Le Grand Trianon and Le Petit Trianon which were Marie Antoinette’s getaways. They were excellent to see as well. Watch the movie Marie Antoinette with Kirsten Dunst to get the idea. Then we decided to walk to the Queen’s English-style hamlet and farm where she lived as a pheasant for fun.

Well we walked the wrong way and the normal gates were closed because it is not high tourism season so you have to enter from the back of Le Petit Trianon. Thanks for telling us that. So after walking miles, we decided that we were finished.

We got my bag and ate our apples on the walk back to the RER. We decided that since it was still fairly early, we wanted to try to get one more thing done before finding a place to eat. On our way there, we walked by the model of the Statue of Liberty’s flame. Under this spot is where Princess Diana was killed in a car accident in 1997. We got off the train and walked down Champs Elyeese to L’Arc de Triomphe. It was very cool but it is really hard to actually get to the base of the arch because it is in the middle of a roundabout that connects 12 streets!

We saved 5E by not going to the top. Frommer’s says that this is the best view of Paris but I have to disagree. I will reveal my choice later. The arch is also home to France’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and we were able to watch some type of ceremony. Shawna asked which soldier was chosen as the unknown one; I had to explain that no one was actually buried there.

Here a fun fact: Napoleon ordered the Arc built to celebrate his military victories but never saw it completed because it took 30 years to build. Victor Hugo’s body laid in repose here after his death and most of Paris paid their respects.

We took the metro back to the hostel to meet Melissa for dinner. She went to the Eiffel Tower with her family! We ate at an Italian restaurant at Place d’Italie. I had Ravioli with meat/cheese sauce. It was excellent! For dessert, I had an ice cream sundae.

Since dinner took almost two hours, we did not have a place to buy wine for our pregame. All the stores were closed. So we went out without a buzz. We walked back down Rue Mouffetard to a quaint place creatively named “Student Bar”.

We all had mojitos (costing 8E each!) and decided to continue in search of a less expensive establishment. We found a more casual bar and tried French beers. I’ve only had two – 1664 and Grimsbergen. In my opinion, 1664 is much better (and cheaper). I don’t think I’ll have Grimsbergen again. Shawna and I had two and then we all walked back and went to bed. I did not write in my journal.

(Google any proper noun that you are unfamiliar with)

Day 4

Day 4:

Tuesday, March 24, 2009: Today was horrible. I began by waking early to shower and check out of my room and move my bags back to the luggage room. I needed to be at the airport to meet my friends with whom I was staying. We had a room for four but could not check in until 4pm. I had all these plans for the day that I would soon find out would not really happen.

So then I walked to the metro at Place d’Italie and used a child’s ticket. I had to change lines so I figured that I would only go a few stops and buy my ticket for the airport then. As I’m walking to the train, I see controllers verifying tickets. And who is there? The Frenchman who stopped me the day before and told me I would be fined if I used the half-price ticket again. Great. I panicked and did a 180 and went back and bought the full price fare for the airport.

So I’m on the train and transfer and am on my way to the airport and my French cell phone rings – it’s Zoe’s dad (one of my friends I am meeting; Zoe, Melissa, and Shawna). He tells me that Zoe is sitting at baggage claim waiting for me (keep in mind that it is 4:30am in Ohio) I explain that I am on the train and on my way to meet her.

Well my first problem was that I went to the Delta arrivals because I found my way back there because that is where I arrived. She flew with American Airlines and was on the complete other side of the airport. Charles de Gaulle is a huge airport too. And so I walked there. I finally found her about a half hour after talking to her dad.

So then we needed to find Shawna and Melissa who flew on United and US Airways, respectively. And so we needed to go all the way to Terminal 1 now on the free airport train. We dragged her bags all the way over there and found the arrivals, but not them. So what should we have done? My American cell phone did not work; they did not have their French cell phones activated yet; the airport internet was not free so they did not email me to tell me where they were; the airport staff would not page them on the intercom. We were starting to freak out.

By now it is noon. I text my mom and asked for advice; I text Shawna’s boyfriend at 7am Ohio time with no response. We finally decided that we would go check the RER station because maybe they were waiting for us there.

So we are on the train back to Terminal 2 and my cell phone rings – it’s Melissa. They are waiting for us where I met Zoe because another member of the group said that she was there waiting for me. Melissa had to use an Israeli Frenchman’s cell phone because other members of our group would not let them use their cell phones for two seconds to call me. Ridiculous.

So after that fiasco, we bought RER tickets for Paris. We boarded the train and took it all the way to Denfert-Roucherou and then had to transfer so we could exit at Place d’Italie and walk to the hostel. Well transferring is much easier said than done with three girls and three-months’ worth of baggage. Zoe got stuck in the exit with her bags and the automatic door closed on her! Hilarious!

So then we dragged the bags the block to the hostel and by now it was 3pm. What a wasted day. Even though they were nervous about doing it, we left all their bags in the luggage room. It was safe but no convincing would have reassured them. They wanted to wait in the lobby for an hour so we could get our room and drop the bags off before doing out. I talked them into walking down the street to activate their French cell phones and walking back and waiting.

The same Frenchman was working in the Orange store and only spoke French. So I explained that they were my friends and needed the same thing I got on Saturday. It took about a half hour to get the three phones all ready, partly because the batteries were all dead. Then we walked back to the hostel and got on the internet to pass time. The girl at the front desk allowed us to check in a few minutes early.

So we were in the room and the girls wanted to change clothes and do this and that so I gave them a half hour to get their shit together before we were going to do something. Finally we were out the door with no ideas or motivation to do anything.

We walked down Rue Mouffetard again and looked in the shops and I took them to the Pantheon for their first view of the Eiffel Tower. On our way back to the hostel, we found a little restaurant at which we ate. We each had a three course meal for 10E! It was very good too! I had escargot, lamb, and crème brule. After we ate, on the walk back, we stopped and bought a bottle of wine to drink in the room even though it was against the rules and we could have maybe been kicked out for doing it.

Thanks for the corkscrew Mom! It came in handy! We got plastic cups from the woman at the shop and relaxed after a hectic day. I did not get a chance to write in my journal.

During the night, we turned the air/heat on. Well I had the top bunk and was roasting during the night. I opened the window during the night but Shawna and Melissa were on the bottom bunks and were freezing. Melissa closed the window and I woke up burning later and opened it again. It was the cherry on top of a perfect day!

(Google any proper noun that you are unfamiliar with)

Friday, March 27, 2009

Day 3

Day 3:

Monday, March 23, 2009: Today, I woke up, showered, dressed, and missed breakfast at the hostel.

I decided that since it was my last day without friends, I would explore the Marais neighborhood. I took the metro to Place de la Bastille after buying a carnet of tickets for the metro. A carnet is ten tickets at a slightly less price; my problem was that I bought the child’s carnet for those under 10. Well you don’t have a problem until a controller verifies your ticket, which happens completely randomly every day. Karma for flying first class direct I’m sure.

So I played the stupid American tourist part and acted like I had no idea what was wrong, not knowing what was going to happen. I spoke in English and explained that I must have bought the wrong carnet by mistake. The controller was not happy and let me go with a warning of a 25E fine is I was caught using the wrong tickets again. Keyword: caught.

This is where the Bastille stood before the French Revolution. It was besieged because of it symbolized oppression and the peoples’ disgust with Louis XIV and Marie Antoinette’s opulent lifestyle at Versailles while the San-Culottes starved and paid extreme taxes, part of which paid for the French’s American aid during our Revolutionary War.

The Colonne de Juillet obelisk commemorates the victims of the July Revolution in 1830. It is large and relatively insignificant but I can now say that I’ve seen it. So then I decided follow Frommer’s walking tour. I went to La Place des Vosages, a huge square that Catherine de Medicis built in memory of King Henri IV after his jousting death left her Queen. It was really cool and I took lots of pictures.

I observed some more from a park bench and watched a toddler play in the sand. Victor Hugo lived in this square and his house is now a museum so I went there. The only problem is that it is closed on Mondays, of course.

I walked north toward the Revolution museum – La Musee Carnavalet. Well it, too, is closed on Mondays: strike two. Finally, I found something that was open and interesting: Musee Picasso. I paid 5E and checked my coat and backpack and wondered at his works of art, actually very interesting and relaxing.

After that, I wondered out la sortie (the exit) and into the courtyard. Amie Schneider yelled my name and I didn’t pay attention at first then I saw them. These are my family friends that I was looking for yesterday and we just ran into each other today!

Amie was with her daughter Lindsay, brother-in-law Bruce, and his sister and brother-in-law. I went with them for the day. We walked back to La Place des Vosages and checked their flights for Thursday because they were flying standby on Delta (Bruce’s wife, Susan, is a flight attendant).
So then we found a café and took away lunch to eat in a parc. I had crocque monsieur – like a sandwich with egg and ham covered in melted cheese.

After that we walked to Centre Pompidou, the museum of modern art. The building is perhaps known more for its controversial exterior more than its contents. All the pipes for air, water, heat, etc., are all color-coded and on the outside of the building. It’s very interesting.

Well the group had the museum discount card so they went in but Lindsay and I waited for them and had ice cream. After that we walked to neighborhood known as Les Halles. We found the church St-Eustache which was built in 1637. Frommer’s says there is a Rembrandt painting there but we never found it.

After that we walked back to the Schneider’s apartment and relaxed for a few before going to buy the best dessert I had in Paris. Of course I do not know the name of where I bought it. We returned to drop off our treats them left again to find a place to eat.

I had pizza avec jambon then we walked back and had dessert. After socializing some more, I excused myself and made my way back to the hostel. I wrote in my journal and went to bed at 11pm.

(Google any proper noun that you are unfamiliar with)

Day 2

Day 2:

Sunday, March 22, 2009: Today, I woke up really early for no particular reason. My body may have still been on EST. I ate breakfast at the hostel – two croissants with jam and butter and juice. They also had cereal, tea, and coffee.

Then I took the metro, line 7 – pink – to Pont Neuf and tried to find the Schneiders, family friends. They were staying nearby but without cell phones and internet, there was really no way to get in contact with them and meet. So I left a note under the door with my French cell phone number (06-82-60-41-82) hoping that maybe they would get it during the day and give me a call – nothing ever happened.

So I decided to walk around the Louvre because it was across the street and on my way to the metro station. (When I say metro I mean subway, FYI). I had tickets for the four of us that I bought online before coming to France. We plan on going to the Louvre on Thursday. The buildings are huge. Being a Sunday morning at 9am, there was hardly anyone around. I saw the glass pyramid and kept walking through Les Jardins des Tuileries all the way to Place de la Concorde at the other end.

Well I didn’t really find the metro station so I kept walking around, which was fine with me. I have Frommer’s Paris 2009 guide for a little help but I have some qualms with the Frommer’s people about this book that will have to be settled at a later date. I found Rue Frouberg-St-Honore in the ritzy district where all the designers have their flagship Paris boutiques. Of course I cannot afford my taste so I held myself back from making an expensive purchase that I would later regret (and they weren’t open this early on a Sunday morning so that made my decision a lot easier).

I stumbled upon all the foreign embassies and the home of Monsieur Sarkozy (the French President) on my way the metro station at Place de Madeleine. I had to ask for directions twice, en Francis of course.

So I finally found the metro station, my only problem was that the automatic ticket machines only take coins. I discovered this at the RER station at Charles de Gaulle but did not get enough change at the coin exchange machine to keep me until now.

In need of change and not wanting to offend a storekeeper by asking for it, I went to a nearby café for a coffee and to do some more people watching – Parisians’ favorite hobby. I made sure to pay with a large bill so I would have change.

Traveling by yourself is nice because you can move at your own pace and have no time schedule. I finally reached the metro station at about noon. The whole reason I wanted this line was because I wanted to go to La Sacre Coure, a huge Catholic basilica atop the largest hill in Paris in the Montmarte neighborhood.

This was my first really touristy attraction and there were people everywhere! I took a few pictures of the view of Paris but it was overcast and foggy. I then entered the basilica with everyone else pushing through the hundred-year-old doors. Just my luck: they were right in the middle of mass. Being a good Catholic, I continued with the tour and pushed around the basilica with everyone else and back out the doors.

Outside, I took another break to watch people. I walked down the hill explore the town. The steps smelled like pee and there was trash in the grass; not very attractive. At the bottom of the steps, I encountered a Kenyan immigrant who put a woven bracelet on my wrist and started speaking English. I told him I was Canadian and that my name was Frederic to make things interesting. He told me a story and blessed (or cursed, he spoke in an African dialect) my hand and then asked me to pay him for his creation; this I had expected.

He said normally it was 10E but for me, 5E. I told him to take it off. He didn’t and we haggled for a few minutes. He then said 3E. I had maybe 1E50 in coins which I gave him and walked away. His bracelet was my first Paris souvenir. I walked around the neighborhood looking for Le Cemetaire Montmarte where Degas is buried, among others. On my way, I stumbled upon La Musee Dali. His work interested me (thanks Stan Alost and VICO 140!) but not for 7E, so I kept walking.

After a few wrong turns, I finally found the cemetery. It was not very exciting. I looked at the map and decided that I did not need to see Degas’s crypt that badly and left. The next street I found was Bd de Clichy where the Moulin Rouge is! The only problem is that a dinner show costs about 90E, so I decided a picture of the exterior would suffice.

Bd de Clichy is home to the sex shops of Paris. After passing up all the offers for peep shows and dirty magazines and DVDs, I found the metro and went back to Place de la Concorde.

I proceeded to explore the other side of the River Seine (Rive Gauche, en Francis). I took pictures of Les Invaledes, where Napoleon is buried, and Musee des Arts Decoratifs before walking back to the Louvre.

I found a café and had dinner – un sandwich avec fromage et jambon et une verre de vin rouge (a ham and cheese sandwich and a glass of red wine, en Anglais). I ate and took line 7 from Pont Neuf to Les Gobelins and walked back to the hostel.

Then I had my daily fill of the internet before watching a French movie with some other hostel patrons. I’m not sure of the title en Francis, but in English, it was The Hate. It was about three teenagers living in Paris’s ghettos. Themes included prejudice, racism, and poverty. It also was about the frequent riots and strikes that occur here.

After the film, I wrote in my journal about my day and was in bed by 10pm.

(Google any proper noun that you are unfamiliar with)

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Paris: Day 1

Bonjour de Paris mes amis!

A Forward:

I am writing this blog for several reasons: first, to keep my family and friends abreast of all my activities while I am living abroad in France for the next three months. Secondly, I want to share my insights and newfound knowledge of Paris and France with others to help them when, and if, they choose to travel here. Following my last point, thirdly, I want to take this opportunity to launch my new travel agency – TRIPS! BY BRAD. Fourthly, I need to share my cynical sense of humor with someone in English. Because I depend on my sense of humor so much, I am afraid it will be the most difficult thing to translate into French. Finally, I’m hoping to make millions by writing a travel book (or several), hosting a travel show, having a reality show, etc. Share this with everyone you know!


Saturday, March 21, 2009: Today I landed in Paris, France! I was able to fly first class direct from Cincinnati to Paris on Delta flight 44. I had a reclining seat, three course meal, and as much wine and champagne as I wanted! The airport was pretty simple. Customs was easy although the line was long. They didn't stamp my passport :(

So then I took the RER regional train to Paris. The cost was 8E40 and the metro machines only take coins! Luckily there was a change machine nearby. The train ride was pretty simple but it took probably 45mins.

I exited the train at Chatlet-Les Halles, but that was not the correct exit. I also did not have hostel reservations so I found an internet cafe to look up an address for the MIJE. Once I found out where I was, I figured I could walk there with all my bags. This was a huge mistake. I hated it!

So I was walking along the Seine with my suitcases and finally decided to get a taxi, luckily it was a Mercedes! I gave him the address and we were on our way. I've only spoken French the whole time as well.

So the taxi cost 6E. But once I got to the MIJE, I learned that they were closed on Saturdays. FML! So then I got another taxi (not a Mercedes) and went to the hostel where I had reservations starting on Tuesday with the rest of my friends. It's the Oops-Paris on Ave les Gobelins in the Latin Quarter, costing 25E/night. (I exchanged 300E – $440 or so – at the airport 5th/3rd before leaving.)

But I thought the address was 5 Ave les Gobelins so that is where I had the taxi drop me off. Well that address is a residence that I attempted to enter. So finally I noticed an Orange store - our French cell phone provider - a few doors down. I went there and they only spoke French but I did well asking to use the internet. I looked up the correct address then and proceeded to activate my cell phone, buying a SIM card and 50E worth of minutes on my credit card for 80E.

So then I dragged my bags the two blocks to the hostel. Finally there, I still did not have a reservation so they told me to make one on their internet so I got the cheaper internet rate, saving me 5E/night. (FYI: for some reason, French toilets are much smaller than their America counterparts. Insert your own story here as to why I included that little tidbit).

So then I felt my bags because I could not check in until 4pm. I walked down Ave les Gobelines in the Latin Quarter to Rue Mouffetard where there are little shops and markets selling anything from apples, oranges, and wine to scarves and postcards. I sat at my first café and had a coffee (café en France). Then I sat by McDonald’s and used their wifi service to Skype home for the first time. Right now there is a five-hour time difference between France and Eastern Standard Time.

I just wondered the neighborhood. I passed Place St-Genevieve and Ecole Henri IV (a high school) and found the Pantheon. Admission was 5E. Inside is very interesting. It was built as a non-secular burial crypt for some France’s most famous citizens like Victor Hugo and Braille, among others. There is also a pendulum hanging from the ceiling that keeps time as the Earth rotates. When I walked out of the Pantheon was when I got my first glimpse of La Tour Eiffel.
I sat on the steps for almost a half hour just watching people before walking back down Rue Mouffetard and then back to the hostel.

I bought a crepe avec Noutella for diner. I was able to check-in and finally put my bags in my room. Then I got on the internet for my first contact with the rest of the world for almost 24 hours – 23 hours too long, in my opinion.

So then I wrote in my journal, en Francis, for my first time about my day. I went to bed at about 9pm or so, 4pm EST.

(Google any proper noun that you are unfamiliar with)